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Hard Boil an Egg - wikiHow

2011-02-14T16:04:00.001-08:00

How to Hard Boil an Egg

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Here's a fool-proof, reliable way to hard boil eggs.

Steps

Place the eggs gently in an empty pot. If you accidentally crack an egg, adding salt or vinegar to the water may help the proteins in the egg white coagulate faster to plug the cracks in the shell.[1]
Fill the pot with enough cold tap water to cover the eggs completely, with about 1 inch (3 cm) of water over them. Use cold water to help keep the eggs from overcooking, even though it increases cooking times.
Add enough salt to make the water taste salty. This can make the eggs easier to peel because, as mentioned earlier, the proteins coagulate and firm up, making the white easier to separate from the shell. Also, eggs that are less fresh are easier to peel because their higher pH strengthens the membrane. (This can be simulated by making the cooking water more alkaline with a half teaspoon of baking soda per quart of water.)[2]
Put on a lid. Bring the water to the point of boiling, over high heat. From here, there are two main schools of thought regarding how to get a perfectly hard boiled egg. The following method assumes you started with cold, refrigerated eggs. See the video below for the other method.
- As soon as the water boils, turn off the heat, but keep the pot on the warm stove. Do not remove the lid. Leave the eggs in the hot water for ten to fifteen minutes.[3] It is important you do not start the timer until the water starts boiling, and you turn off the heat. Too much time will make the eggs discolored and smelly, while too little time will cause them to be runny.
Stop the cooking process. Chill the eggs by placing them under cold running water or in a bowl of ice water. Let them sit for a few minutes until the eggs are completely cool.
Peel the eggs when they are cool enough to handle. It's easier to peel them under cold running water. Some people say that really fresh eggs are harder to peel, so try boiling eggs that you have had for a few days.
Eat and enjoy!

Video

Tips

Some sources recommend making a shallow hole with a pin at the flatter end before boiling, so that it'll let the expanding air escape thus reducing the chance of cracking[4] but studies have shown this isn't a reliable technique.[5] Do not use eggs that are cracked, since they may contain bacteria. [6]
To peel, put the lid back on the drained pot, with the eggs still in it, and swirl and shake (no need to add cold water, because you've pre-cooled the eggs with cold water before draining the pot). When you take off the lid, you'll see whole boiled eggs with the shells gently cracked all over, making the peeling process a breeze. (Peel them over the trash can because the small chips can make a mess of your sink.)
To ensure your egg is hardboiled, when it is cooled off, spin it on a hard surface like a top, and if it spins quickly without flying off in one direction, the egg is finished. Undercooked or uncooked eggs will have a wobbly, unsteady spin and will spiral off to one side.
Fresh eggs are less prone to cracking but more difficult to peel. Eggs which have been refrigerated for several days have higher pH and are more likely to crack, but they're easier to peel. If you have fresh eggs, you can add a teaspoon of baking soda to a quart of water when cooking (but it might make the eggs taste slightly more sulfuric) or just cook them a little longer and allow the white to firm up in fridge before peeling.
After draining the cooked eggs shake the pan from side to side to crack the shells and then fill with cold water. Cracking lets the cool water in under the shells making the eggs much easier to peel. If you're going to be cutting the boiled eggs in half, you might want to use the freshest eggs you can find, since they tend to have a more centered yolk and less likelihood of greening.[7]
Letting the eggs come to room temperature before boiling will help prevent the yolks from turning green.
Using a teaspoon can help keep the egg white intact. Pinch off a small section of shell and membrane from the large end. Insert spoon under shell and membrane so that the spoon cups the egg. Then just slide the spoon around and peel off sections of shell.
Stirring the eggs and water a couple of times while the water is coming to a boil will help center the yolks.
You may have better luck starting with room temperature eggs.
Here is a special trick to peel your eggs easily: Crack the egg, then roll it under your hand back and forth. (This separates the membrane from the entire egg) Then, peel the shell off, starting at the larger end. The shell will come off easily.
To make hard boiled eggs, here's the secret: Don't boil them. The "perfect" hard boiled egg (tender white, semi-solid yolk) can be reliably cooked by keeping the egg at 65°C or 149°F (well below the boiling point of water) for 6 hours or more[8][9] but most people don't have that kind of time and patience.
If you are using white eggs, throw some onion skins (the dry brown part) in the water when you cook them. They will color the eggs a pretty shade of brown, and you'll be able to tell the difference between cooked and uncooked at a glance.

Warnings

If you keep the eggs at boiling temperature, you risk overcooking the eggs, which over coagulates the proteins (resulting in rubbery whites and dry yolks) and generates hydrogen sulfide in the egg.[10]
Be careful that you do not burn yourself with the hot water or the eggs.
Using too much vinegar will cause your eggs to smell bad and taste like vinegar.
Peeling the eggs under running water may cause drains to plug up. It is very difficult to remove eggshells from your pipes since they are relatively heavy and tend to sink, getting caught on debris stuck to the inside walls of your sewer pipes.
Don't Microwave an egg in its shell, because it can explode and make a mess or even kill the microwave. Instead, you can Poach an Egg Using a Microwave in plastic wrap for an egg cooked through (if you like) though in an irregular blob shape rather than an egg shape.

Related wikiHows

Sources and Citations

↑ http://khymos.org/eggs.php

↑ Harold McGee. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. ISBN 0684800012

↑ Harold McGee. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. ISBN 0684800012

↑ http://khymos.org/eggs.php

↑ Harold McGee. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. ISBN 0684800012

↑ http://lancaster.unl.edu/food/ciq-egg-safety.shtml

↑ Harold McGee. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. ISBN 0684800012

↑ http://khymos.org/eggs.php

↑ http://eriks-food-ucation.blogspot.com/2006/05/opposite-boiled-eggs-cooking-egg-with.html

↑ Harold McGee. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. ISBN 0684800012

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Hard Boil an Egg. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

2009-01-22T11:46:00.000-08:00

Cook Vegetarian Chili - wikiHow

2009-01-13T16:57:00.000-08:00

How to Cook Vegetarian Chili

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

A delicious and spicy vegetarian chili that will please even picky meat eaters is not hard to make! Simple ingredients, easy instructions and you have a delicious pot of rich, meat-free chili! What more could you ask for?

Ingredients

olive oil
2 tbsp quality chili powder
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp dried oregano
1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
1 10oz or larger pkg vegetarian beef or sausage style crumbles OR 1 lb extra firm tofu, frozen, thawed and crumbled OR 2 cups TVP crumbles, rehydrated
2 large cloves fresh garlic, chopped fine
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 large can of black beans, undrained
1 large can of red kidney beans, undrained
1 large can of peeled Italian tomatoes, undrained
3 cups water
1 tbls Dutch-processed or other good cocoa powder
3 tsp vegetarian beef-style broth powder
1 tsp nutritional yeast
2 tsp corn starch disolved in 1/4 cup water(optional)
dried spicy pepper flakes to taste
salt to taste
finely chopped onion, grated cheese, and extra hot sauce for garnish
cooked brown rice, whole grain noodles or couscous

Steps

Take a large, heavy bottomed pot, add 2 tbls olive oil, cumin, chili powder, oregano, and cayanne pepper.
Saute over medium heat for about 1 minute, stirring to toast the spices.
Add the soya crumble, tofu or TVP, and stir well to coat.
Add the garlic and chopped onion, stir, and saute, adding up to two more tablespoons of olive oil if needed.
Cook, stirring occassionally for about three minutes, making sure the mixture does not scorch.
Add the beans,tomatoes and water. Stir well.
Add the cocoa powder, broth mix, and yeast.
Stir all in well, cover and simmer for about 30 minutes, stirring occassionally (be sure to stir the bottom of the pot!).
Add salt, freshly ground pepper and red pepper flakes to adjust spices to your taste.
If you'd like a thicker chili, stir in the corn starch mixture and cook for an additional 2 minutes or until broth is thick.
Serve hot over rice, couscous or noodles, garnished with cheese and onions (omit the cheese for vegans) Pass hot sauce at the table for those who like theirs super hot!

Video

A video demonstration of making vegetarian chili (variant recipe).

Tips

Make sure your ingredients never burn. Scorched tomatoes taste awful and usually can't be saved. Ditto for burnt garlic.
Stir your pot all the way to the bottom...this is a thick chili and the beans sometimes settle and burn
Be sure to pour all the liquid into the pot...draining and rinsing your beans eliminates taste and nutrients.
"Gimme Lean" brand of crumbles seem to work best -- it's usually available in grocery stores in or near the produce section. Boca Bits and Morningstar Farms crumbles, found in the freezer section, are also good.

Warnings

Adding everything at once results in tasteless chili. The spices need to toast in the oil for them to release their flavor. Adding the soy product to the spices spreads the flavor throughout the chili.

Related wikiHows

Sources and Citations

[http://www.catalogs.com/search_3.asp?id=1132

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Cook Vegetarian Chili. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Split Gnarly Firewood - wikiHow

2008-12-08T11:30:00.000-08:00

How to Split Gnarly Firewood

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Gnarly, knotty, crooked-grained hardwood can be difficult to split for firewood, but there are occasions when it either must be split, or left to waste and rot. If you have a strong back and the right tools, most wood can be split.

Steps

Get out your tools. For normal wood splitting, an axe might be all you need, but for gnarly wood, if you don't have access to a hydraulic logsplitter, you will need the following:
- Axe
- Maul (AKA: splitting maul, busting maul, etc)
- Sledge hammer
- Steel wedge (preferably more than one)
Cut your wood to the shortest usable length. Because the crooked, irregular grain, (and likely knots) will make the splitting job more difficult, start out with the shortest cut you can use.
Cut a large, flat section of log for a splitting block, to place the segments you are splitting on. This will save a lot of bending over, and make the use of the sledge hammer and maul much easier.
Look for checks (splits which occur as wood dries) in either end of the block you are splitting. These indicate weak grains, which may be easier to begin a split in.
Try the maul one or two times. Even if the wood looks gnarly, it may not be as bad as it appears. If you see a large check crack on one end, this is what you will want to aim for.
Measure the point of your expected impact by getting into your swing stance (feet spread, knees possibly bent slightly), and while you hold the handle of your maul as you would swinging it, set it on the location you want to hit the block you are attempting to split.
Bring the maul back up over your shoulder on the side of your dominant hand, then bring down in a chopping motion with a hard, solid blow.
Look for a widening of any cracks, if the wood does not split completely when the blow is struck.
Use a steel wedge, if the maul will not split the block of wood. Set the wedge in any crack that you can see, then tap it into the wood like you would begin driving a nail.
Strike the wedge with your sledge hammer. Use a good, solid blow, taking care to place it accurately. The wedge should begin to split the block by forcing the grain to seperate where the wedge penetrates the wood.
Continue driving the wedge into the wood. If your wedge is thick and wide enough, eventually, the wood will split. If you end up burying the wedge completely and the wood still hasn't split, you may have to drive a second wedge in further along the crack.
Continue wedging the block of wood apart until it is split. You may find you have to chop apart some splintered wood grain around large knots to completely split the block.
Split large blocks of wood in half, if possible, then split these in half again. As the blocks become narrower, they should split much more easily.
Stack your split wood to dry when you are finished, clean and sharpen any tools that have become dulled with use.

Tips

Split wood while it still has moisture. Green wood splits more easily than seasoned wood does.
Some people split logs from the bottom up, in other words, by inverting the log segments.
A good splitting maul head has a blade ground to a much wider angle than an axe blade - maybe 90 degrees - so it starts cracks without getting stuck in the wood.
A 'star' wedge is a good type of wedge that actually twists into the wood as you strike it, causing the wood to split more easily.
If the piece you're splitting is heavy (but not too heavy), and the axe gets stuck in it, you can swing the whole thing bottom up, so that your axe head will come down on the base block, and the weight of the piece will split it. This is a very powerful way to split, however, be extra careful nobody's behind or around you, as the piece could fly off wildly.
If the wood cannot be split, allow it to dry for a few weeks. This will allow check cracks to form, and may build internal pressure as the wood begins to shrink at the cut ends, which will make splitting easier. Do not allow the wood to season completely, however.
Leave the branches on it for as long as you can before you cut up the tree. Even after the tree is cut down it will still continue to live and the leaves will suck almost all of the water out of the trunk.
If the maul or sledge hammer has a heavy head and long handle, hold it with one hand, swing it behind you like a pendulum; then pull it forward quickly and let its momentum pull your arm straight up over your head. Now bring it down with all its gravitational energy plus what you add on the way down - and you never had to work against gravity by lifting the hammer.

Warnings

Wear gloves, boots, and safety glasses while splitting wood.
Wood will occasionally split violently, sending splinters or chunks of wood flying in unexpected directions.
Watch for poisonous insects and other natural hazards while cutting wood.
Also consider wearing catchers shin guards to protect against the axe head accidentally missing your target and splitting open your leg instead of the log.

Things You'll Need

Splitting maul
Axe
Sledge hammer
Steel wedges
safety equipment

Related wikiHows

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Split Gnarly Firewood. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

2008-12-04T17:04:00.001-08:00

This is where I would write about Eggplant Parmesan. If I were to write about Eggplant Parmesan...that is.

2008-11-19T14:39:00.001-08:00

2008-11-16T11:11:00.001-08:00

Use Prepackaged Concrete Mix - wikiHow

2008-10-21T13:40:00.000-07:00

How to Use Prepackaged Concrete Mix

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

For very small concrete projects like sidewalk or driveway repairs, bags of premixed concrete can be a money saving alternative to buying Ready-Mixed bulk concrete. This product, available in bags of dry blended material can be purchased in home improvement and building supply stores in many areas.

Steps

Figure out how much premixed concrete you will need for your project. Multiply the length times the width times the depth of the space you need to fill. This will tell you give a cubic size, or volume, of concrete that you need. Next, divide the volume (in cubic feet, meters, etc.) by the package yield of the material you are using. Typically, premixed concrete comes in 20, 40, and 80 pound bags, with the 80 pound bag yielding about 4/5 of a cubic foot of concrete.
Prepare any forms you will need to hold the concrete, and grade and compact the soil or sub grade material. Place any reinforcing steel, and generally speaking, be ready for your concrete.
Purchase the premixed product you have chosen to use. Here are a few examples of different mixtures commonly available:
- 3000 PSI (pounds per square inch) compressive strength, gravel, sand, and Portland cement mixture. This is a basic, inexpensive concrete suitable for most repairs, as well as for setting posts and poles.
- 4000 PSI mixture is for repairing or building structural concrete like sidewalks or driveways, where extra strength will increase the durability of the finished surface.
- 5000 PSI quick-setting concrete is a very strong mixture with a higher ratio of Portland cement to fine and coarse aggregates, typically used where quick-setting is desirable and higher strength may be needed.
- Sand mix contains no gravel or stone (coarse aggregate) and is used for grouting or topping, where a smoother surface is desired.
- Other mixes include premixed mortars, non-metallic non-shrink grouts and high-strength early (high early) concrete. These are specialty mixes for specific purposes not covered in this article.
Gather the materials you will need to complete your project. See "Things You'll Need" below for a complete list, but these will include your dry concrete mix, clean water, a shovel, and a container for mixing.
Open a bag of your concrete mix and pour it into your mixing container. Wheelbarrows (as in the pictures) are ideal for mixing small quantities of concrete. Avoid spilling the dry material on finished surfaces or lawn grasses, and keep upwind if possible to avoid breathing dust from this product.
Make a small depression or hole in the dry material in the center of the container, using a shovel or mixing hoe. This will act as a reservoir for the water you add. Pour one gallon of water for each 60 pounds of dry mix into the depression. Don't worry about overflow or splashing, because all the container's contents must be mixed completely before the concrete is used.
Stir the material and water, using a shovel or mixing hoe, so all the material is wetted. Add additional water until the concrete is as plastic as you want it to be for your project. You should avoid making the concrete too thin, or soupy, as excess water will weaken the finished concrete, and will also allow the aggregates to separate out of the mix.
Continue mixing for a minute or two to completely mix the water into the concrete mixture. Concrete hardens through the process of hydration, so continuing to mix the material will insure the reaction will occur completely.
Place your concrete into your form, smoothing the surface with a shovel or other tool so any additional concrete you need to finish the job can be easily estimated.
Float your concrete after it is placed and rodded off with a straight-edge or screed board. You may want to pat the concrete with your finishing tool to compact the material, removing any voids or air pockets which have formed as you placed it.
Finish the concrete according to your own requirements or the requirements of the project design.
Barricade the area around the concrete to prevent passersby from stepping into it (which could ruin your finished project) and allow it to set and cure. Clean and put away your tools, clean up the area, and remove the empty bags when you are finished.

Tips

Buy premixed concrete in bags you are comfortable handling. 80 pound bags which must be lifted several times, carried great distances, or otherwise handled excessively may be too much for you, so consider purchasing the product in smaller bags.
Have a good water source ready before you begin. This will allow you to mix all your material, clean up tools, and clean up any spills that occur while you work.
Have a plan and a place to rid yourself of any excess concrete.
If you have (physically strong) assistance, bag concrete can also be mixed and poured easily from a strong tarp, pour dry mix onto the tarp, pour water into the depression (as above), then with your helper, pick up the 4 corners and shake and roll the mix together until it blends (90 seconds or so). This methods requires holding a pretty hefty amount of weight up in the air for a while, but many people find it is a very quick and easy method.
Technically speaking, concrete is what cement with aggregate is after adding water. ie; wet.

Warnings

Use a dust mask or respirator, safety glasses, and chemical resistant gloves when using concrete.
Concrete mixtures can set up more rapidly than expected, so be prepared, and get help if needed.

Things You'll Need

Premixed concrete mix
Shovel
Container for mixing
Finishing tools
Clean water
Safety equipment

Related wikiHows

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Use Prepackaged Concrete Mix. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Looking for a WikiHow Software Engineer

2008-06-24T17:55:00.000-07:00

wikiHow Software Engineer / Developer Position

Company Background:

wikiHow (http://www.wikihow.com) is a wiki based how-to manual. Our mission is to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. We currently get over 11 million unique visitors a month, which makes us either the 250th or 800th most popular site on the Internet depending on which stats company you trust. We are growing fast. In time, we hope to become the default how-to information source for the world.

We are a hybrid organization: a for profit entity focused on creating a global public good. In other words we are run as a community service first and a business second. All of our content is licensed under a Creative Commons license. Similarly we create open source software which we put under the GPL and distribute freely. We donate a very large portion of our revenues to charities which support our mission such as the Wikimedia Foundation and Creative Commons.

Despite being one of the most popular sites on the net, we are run by a very small but very dedicated remotely distributed team. We are looking for a software engineer join us in our mission to build the world's best how-to manual. If hired, you will be the second engineer employed at the company.

This may discourage the faint of soul: We are building this for the long haul. We want wikiHow to be here 100 years from now. We aren't planning to IPO. And thus we don't offer stock options. If you want to Retire in Your 30s , you may want to find another opportunity. That said, we do offer a competitive salaries and healthy benefits.

wikiHow is comprised of editors from around the world. You can accept this job and work remotely from anywhere in the world or if you prefer at our offices in Menlo Park, California.

Learn more:
http://www.wikihow.com/About-wikiHow

Job Description:

This person will assist in the design, implementation and maintenance of features for the wikiHow website, fix bugs, help maintain the production and development servers. They will work closely with the current engineer, the wikiHow support team, and the wikiHow volunteer community. They will be expected to be on call for production issues on a rotating basis.

Requirements:

A bachelor's in computer science or equivalent
Familiarity with programming Web applications in the Linux environment (LAMP)
HTML - PHP - SQL - CSS - BASH - Javascript - AJAX
Experience programming in a variety of languages and environments
Familiarity with MySQL databases and common issues with indices, tables, etc
Quick learner, self-motivated and able to work both on a team and individually
Ability to take feedback and suggestions from an active and passionate user base
A passion for creating great products
Interest in the wikiHow mission

Nice to have, but not required:

Experience working with wikis
Experience working for an open source software project
Sound knowledge of the architecture of multi-tier web applications
Experience developing extensions, or hacking, the Mediawiki platform
Keen understanding of new Internet technologies
Familiarity with current open source software libraries and applications
Experience with load balancing, or Squid

This position can be done remotely, or local to the SF Bay Area.

Contact us

Email a resume and cover letter to jobs2@wikihow.com

Create an Art Car - wikiHow

2008-03-13T13:30:00.000-07:00

How to Create an Art Car

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Tired of the sea of silver and tan that seems to make up traffic? Do you want to stand out or make a statement? Try turning your vehicle into an art car.

Steps

Choose an automobile to modify. If you're planning on driving your art car on a regular basis, you'll want one that is in good mechanical working order. Some "cartists", however, prefer to leave their art cars parked, and only move them by towing to destinations such as art shows. Since you'll probably be modifying the outside heavily, it doesn't matter too much if the finish is damaged, although an additional investment of time and effort will be required to remove any rust if you're going to paint the car.
Choose your theme. Themes are unlimited. You can go with a hobby, a political statement, self-expression or a commercial venture. If the car is going to be driven, it's likely to draw attention and can be a good medium through which to advance a cause or promote a business.
Plan your car art and start where it draws you. During the planning stage, let your creativity run wild. Make sketches or collect swatches and samples of possible materials or colors to use. Then, choose an idea and modify it so that you can execute it.
Make any pre-paint modifications to the car itself. If your plan calls for see-through panels, for instance, it's best to make the cuts before painting.
Create any sculptures or larger items you plan to attach to the car. If you can do these separately from the car itself, they will help you to get the colors and arrangement right on the rest of the vehicle. It's also a good idea to do these first, at least the larger ones, to determine whether you're really committed to the project before you cut and paint.
- Keep in mind that you can also expand the surface of the car with expandable spray foam or bondo body-filler. This may reduce the need to attach separate large objects to the car.
Paint the car. Choose a color or colors that will go with your theme. The paint can be the art in itself or it can be a background for other additions, or both. One-shot sign enamel is available in bright colors and is very durable, but you can also use oil paint (for more expression and less convenience) or even poster paint (for a temporary design).
Attach any large pieces where they will go. For larger pieces, be very sure that you secure them firmly (see warnings below). It's likely that you'll need to use bolts, screws, pop rivets or welding. There are, however, ways to attach large pieces temporarily, such as with string or rope, or even creating edges that wrap around doors and trunks so that they are secured when the door or trunk is closed.
Attach any other background materials, such as tile, fur, bottle caps, etc. A car that has its surface virtually covered in small objects is often referred to as a "gluey". You can use silicone adhesive, epoxy or liquid nails. Use the larger works to get the spacing and arrangement right.
- Smaller objects can be attached temporarily with magnets. This is useful if you only want the car to be a work of art for a short period of time, or if there's a chance the objects will be stolen when the car is unattended.
- Don't forget that if the car is driven, these items will see vibration, acceleration, and high wind. They should also be relatively weatherproof.
Light it up. If the art car will be on display after hours, you can add Christmas lights, el wire or neon tubes, which can be powered independently (battery in the back seat?), through the cigarette lighter, or wired to the battery.
Apply any finish coatings to the outside. Will you add a protective coating of shellac or fill in grooves with caulk of some sort?
Decorate the inside of the car, if you are going to. Will you add furry trim or bright colors to go with your theme?
Decorate yourself to match. Wear outfits that match or complement the design of the car.
Show off your art car. Go to shows, parades, or just drive around town. Be prepared to answer questions! To find other "cartists" go to an art car parade.

Tips

Be realistic about your mechanical and electrical abilities if you plan to do more than surface decoration. If you want to add lights or make major structural modifications, be sure you know what you're doing, or get help from someone who does.
Don't forget to leave space for yourself and your passengers. That means checking that doors can still open and close, not applying interior trim where it will encroach on passenger space, etc.
When painting, follow the directions on the paint can.
Be sure you allow 24 hours before driving with any newly glued items on your car.
When attaching large sculptures to your vehicle, allow for vibration and a back up system. Use a lot of quarter-inch bolts to hold sculptures on. You can also also use an #8 copper wire as a backup plan. Safety is a great concern. Remember that anything sticking out will be subject to wind, vibration, acceleration, and deceleration. You want people to look at your car but not get hit by it.
Depending on your theme, look around for found materials. They'll save you money, and they just may inspire ideas you hadn't thought of.
Plan to protect your hard work from the weather. Store it in a garage or other covered parking if you can; if you can't, get a cover or tarp for it.

Warnings

If you will drive the car (and isn't that the point?), be sure to comply with the laws of your area. That means, among other things, not covering up things like lights, windshields, and license plates.
Be mindful of structural integrity. It's one thing to chop out a bit of sheet metal and replace it with acrylic so that goodies inside a door can show through; it's another matter entirely to start slicing up frame members.
Be sure not to void the warranty if your car is newer. Some things like paint and applying items will void it.

Related wikiHows

Sources and Citations

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Art_car

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Create an Art Car. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Make Your Cell Phone Battery Last Longer - wikiHow

2008-01-16T11:42:00.000-08:00

How to Make Your Cell Phone Battery Last Longer

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

While many of us now use cell phones in place of land-line phones in our homes, the primary benefit of cell phones remains their portability. A cell phone is only as portable as its power source, however, so to get the most out of your phone you need to get the most out of your battery. When it comes to battery life, there are two separate, but connected, considerations: how to make the battery last longer between charges, and how to prolong the overall life of the battery.

Steps

Increase Time between Charges

Turn the phone off. This is probably the most effective and simplest way of conserving your battery’s power. If you don't plan on answering the phone while you're sleeping or after business hours, just turn it off. Do the same if you are in an area with no reception (such as a subway or remote area) or in a roaming area, since constantly searching for service depletes the battery fairly quickly. Some phones have an automatic power save feature, but it takes about 30 minutes with no service to kick in. By then, much battery power has been used.
Stop searching for a signal. When you are in an area with poor or no signal, your phone will constantly look for a better connection, and will use up all your power doing so. This is easily understood if you have ever forgotten to turn off your phone on a flight. The best way to ensure longer battery life is to make sure you have a great signal where you use your phone. If you don't have a perfect signal, get a cell phone repeater which will amplify the signal to provide near perfect reception anywhere.
Switch off the vibrate function on your phone, and use just the ring tone instead. The vibrate function uses up a lot of battery power. Keep the ring tone volume as low as possible.
Turn off your phone's back light. The back light is what makes the phone easier to read in bright light or outside. However, the light also uses battery power. If you can get by without it, your battery will last longer. If you have to use the back light, many phones will let you set the amount of time to leave the back light on. Shorten that amount of time. Usually, one or two seconds will be sufficient. Some phones have an ambient light sensor, which can turn off the back light in bright conditions and enable it in darker ones.
Avoid using unnecessary features. If you know it will be a while before your phone’s next charge, don’t use the camera or connect to the Internet. Flash photography can drain your battery especially quickly. If your phone has bluetooth capability, disable it when not in use.
Keep calls short. This is obvious, but how many times have you heard someone on their cell phone say, "I think my battery’s dying," and then continue their conversation for several minutes? Sometimes, the dying battery is just an excuse to get off the phone (and a good one, at that), but if you really need to conserve the battery, limit your talk time.

Prolong the Life of Your Battery

Initialize a new battery. New batteries should be fully charged before their first use to obtain maximum capacity. Nickel-based batteries should be charged for 16 hours initially and run through 2-4 full charge/full discharge cycles, while lithium ion batteries should be charged for about 5-6 hours. Ignore the phone telling you that the battery is full--this is normal but is not accurate if the battery is not initialized.[1]
Keep the battery cool. Your battery will last longest if used near room temperature, and nothing wears on a battery like extended exposure to high temperatures. While you can’t control the weather, you can avoid leaving your phone in a hot car or in direct sunlight, and you don’t have to carry your phone in your pocket, where your body heat will raise its temperature. In addition, check the battery while it’s charging. If it seems excessively hot, your charger may be malfunctioning.
Charge your battery correctly, in accordance with its type. Most newer cell phones have lithium-ion batteries, while older ones generally have nickel-based batteries. Read the label on the back of the battery or in the technical specifications in the manual to determine which yours is.
- Nickel-based batteries (either NiCd or NiMH) suffer from a phenomenon known as the "memory effect." If you charge the battery partially enough times, eventually the battery "forgets" that it can charge fully. A nickel-based battery suffering from memory effect can be reconditioned, which requires the battery to be completely discharged, then completely recharged (sometimes several times). The appropriate length of time between reconditionings varies. A good rule to follow for nickel-battery cell-phones is to discharge them completely once every two to three weeks, and only when you have a charger available. [2]
- Lithium ion batteries, on the other hand, do not suffer from the same memory effect. However, many devices that use lithium batteries have a battery meter, showing the user how much charge the battery has left. Starting with a battery's manufacture at the factory, lithium ions oxidize in the battery, shortening its life. After a certain amount of time, the battery exhibits slightly different electronic properties, which the device can only detect when the battery is discharged. This type of problem is known as a "virtual memory effect" and occurs when your battery meter can show a high charge, then suddenly drop to low charge when the battery is almost dead. Every thirty cumulative cycles, you should discharge lithium ion batteries until the phone gives a low battery warning, then recharge it. If you discharge lithium ion batteries to zero voltage, the internal safety circuit may open. In that case, a normal charger will be inadequate. Reconditioning ensures that the battery meter on a lithium ion cellphone is accurate (although it will not affect actual battery capacity).
- Regardless of the battery type, use only a charger rated for your battery, and discontinue use of a charger that causes the battery to heat up excessively.
Store batteries properly. If your battery will be out of use for a while, disconnect it from the phone and store it in a cool place (the refrigerator is good, but freezing temperatures do not slow oxidation) and away from metal objects. Ensure that the battery is not exposed to moisture; try putting the battery in an airtight container or bag. Lithium ion batteries are not rated to operate at refrigerated temperatures, so let the battery sit outside the refrigerator for at least an hour before using it again. Lithium ion batteries oxidize least when they are stored at 40% charge. Never store a lithium battery at low voltage. Recharge batteries after storage.
Clean the battery contacts on the battery and on the phone. Over time, contacts may accumulate dirt. Clean them with a cotton swab and rubbing alcohol to maximize the efficiency of energy transfer. In addition, if the contacts are two different metals, such as gold and tin, accelerated corrosion known as "fretting" occurs. Cutting the corrosion from fretted contacts often requires solvents, such as acetone or nail polish remover. Be careful: these solvent dissolve plastic, so use a Q-Tip to avoid damaging the battery housing or the phone.

Battery Failure Indicators

The usable time after recharging is shortened.
The battery becomes unusually warm during a recharge cycle.
The battery becomes unusually warm during phone use.
The battery case often is swollen. This is detectable by feeling and viewing the inside/phone-side of the battery case. Also, when the battery is placed inside/phone-side down on a flat, smooth surface, it will rock and will sustain a spin motion. The case of a healthy battery is flat and will not sustain a spin motion.
The battery develops a hard spot. This is detectable on the inside/phone-side surface of the battery by gently pinching about the surface between one's fingers.

Tips

Regardless of how well you care for your battery, it will die eventually. When it does, you may be able to have it refurbished by sending it to the manufacturer or bringing it back to the retailer. If it cannot be refurbished, or if you just want to get a new battery, be sure to recycle it, either by returning it to the manufacturer or retailer, or by bringing it to a recycling center. Most Best Buy stores have drop-off boxes for recycled phones.
You should not have to turn off your phone to charge it. Most battery chargers deliver more than enough current to power your phone and charge it at the same time. Doing so will not lengthen the charge time, and leaving a phone on allows the user to be aware of its fuel gauge, so that you can remove it when the battery is full.
When using a car charger, do not charge the battery when the inside temperature of your car is hot. Wait until the car has cooled before you plug in the phone.

Warnings

Do not store a lithium battery with a very low charge for a long time, the battery monitor will draw a small current, which might cause a 'deep discharge' which may cause damage to the battery.
Avoid cheap, knockoff chargers as they may cause excessive battery heating.
When buying lithium ion batteries, be aware that oxidation begins at the time of manufacture, not the time of first use. As such, older lithium batteries will have reduced capacity (about 20% per year stored at room temperature). If you buy a battery at a clearance sale price, expect that you will get less life out of the cell phone.
Never dispose of old batteries in the trash. Batteries contain toxic metals, and electronic waste from batteries and other electronic components is becoming a major problem. Improper disposal of toxic batteries is illegal in many jurisdictions.[3]

Related wikiHows

Sources and Citations

↑ http://articles.techrepublic.com.com/5100-6255-1043618-2.html

↑ http://articles.techrepublic.com.com/5100-6255-1043618-2.html

↑ Rechargeable Battery Recycling Corporation

Battery University Detailed information on caring for batteries of all types
TechRepublic.com Article on extending battery life

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Make Your Cell Phone Battery Last Longer. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

How to Drink Absinthe

2008-01-09T22:29:00.001-08:00

"Absinthe is a formerly banned spirit drink that is made with Artemisia absinthium (wormwood) and other herbs. Also known as la fée verte (the green fairy), absinthe was originally formulated during the 18th century by the French-born Dr. Pierre Ordinaire in Switzerland as a digestive tonic."

read more | digg story

Testing. Please ignore

2008-01-09T20:17:00.002-08:00

Check out this interesting answer on Yedda

Finding babysitters onlineTry these two websites. it appears that background investigations are inititated, which will help you to feel that your child or children will be in safe hands, if you should ever desire services from an angency. I sincerely hope that these sites assist you in finding the right person. www.nannynetwork.com/Agencysearch/index.cfm and www.theapna.org/
Topics: family, kids, baby, babysitting
Answered by Femalesoldier on January 10, 2008
View the entire discussion on Yedda

Block Facebook Beacon - wikiHow

2007-12-19T08:25:00.000-08:00

Block Facebook Beacon - wikiHow

How to Block Facebook Beacon

from wikiHow

On November 6th, 2007 Facebook launched a new feature called Beacon which collects data on the behavior of Facebook users on several commercial websites such as eBay, Fandango, Zappos and Overstock.com. [1] When a Facebook user purchases an item at one of these websites, Facebook provides a way for the user to advertise their purchase on their Facebook News Feed.[2] Although early versions of the Beacon service permitted users to decline sending out the advertising, Facebook did not allow users to opt out of the data collection and behavior monitoring.[3][4] After substantial outcry from privacy advocates, on December 6, 2007 Facebook made changes to Beacon that permit everyone to opt out from any data collection; according to Facebook's founder, "If you select that you don't want to share some Beacon actions or if you turn off Beacon, then Facebook won't store those actions even when partners send them to Facebook." [5]
For users of Facebook who would prefer not permit Facebook to collect and share this sort of data, this article offers two easy ways to block Beacon. The first uses Facebook's privacy settings and works with all browsers. The second uses an easy-to-install add-on for the Firefox browser. Follow these simple steps to ensure your private information remains private.

Steps

Block Facebook Beacon Using Facebook Privacy Settings

Log in to your Facebook profile
Click on Privacy in the Facebook toolbar.
Find External Websites on the bottom of the list of privacy options and click on Edit Settings.
Check the box next to Don't allow any websites to send stories to my profile.
Click on Save. Facebook Beacon is now blocked from storing any information about your activity on other sites.
Note that this method only stops your information from being published- Facebook still receives it. They claim not to store it, but it is impossible to verify from the outside. To assure that Facebook does not transmit your data, consider doing a full block described below.

Block Facebook Beacon Using Firefox

Install the Firefox browser if you do not already have it.
Install the BlockSite extension from the Mozilla website. You can also use the popular Adblock plus extensions.
- Scroll down the page and click on the green Install Now button. Firefox may try to block the installation; if so you will see a yellow bar appear at top of your browser window with text "Firefox prevented this site (addons.mozilla.org) from asking you to install software on your computer." If you see this message, click on the Edit Options... button on the right side of the yellow bar and a small pop-out window will appear.
- Click on the "Allow" button on the pop-out window to add this site to the list of sites you permit to install addons.
- Close the pop out window by clicking on the red circle in the upper left corner.
- Click on the green Install Now button on the Mozilla Add-ons web page a second time. Another small window will appear.
- Click on the blue button in the new window to install the BlockSite extension.
- Restart Firefox once this extension has been installed to complete the process and enable BlockSite.
Click on the Firefox "Tools" menu and select Add-ons (the tools menu is located at the top of your screen next to the Bookmarks menu).
Click on Extensions, then on Blocksite, and then on "Options" (for Windows) or Preferences (for Mac/Linux)..
Click on the Add button in the Options/Preferences window.
Type this URL in the small box that pops up "http://*facebook.com/beacon/*" and then click on the OK button.
Check Options/Preferences window to make sure that the beacon URL shows in the Locations window.
Click OK at the bottom of the window to complete the block.

Tips

If using a Firefox add-on, be sure to enter the asterisks as shown after "http://" and before the word "facebook" in the URL as well as after "beacon/" to ensure the add-on blocks sites properly. These asterisks are wildcards that tell the extension to block different iterations of http://facebook.com/beacon/ like http://www.facebook.com/beacon/ and others.
If you decide to opt out, this information will not be shared with your friends or Facebook. Using Facebook's system, you can opt-out on a company-by-company basis or you can opt-out of Beacon's information sharing system entirely.
Opera users can go to Tools > Advanced > Blocked Content and add the same URL given above to block Beacon.[6]
You may also wish to review your other privacy settings on Facebook and make sure that you aren't sharing more information than you care to with others.

Warnings

Be careful of the personal data you share with social networking sites. Identity thieves are increasingly using sites like Facebook to help them compromise others' identities. [7]

Related wikiHows

Sources and Citations

↑ Facebook Press release, November 6, 2007

↑ Facebook Press Release, November 29, 2007

↑ Official: Facebook Flips on Beacon November 29, 2007

↑ Facebook: I'm Still Watching You Watch Me

↑ Facebook Blog, December 5, 2007

↑ http://antivirus.about.com/b/2007/12/01/no-opting-out-of-facebook-beacons.htm

↑ Facebook bonanza for ID thieves. Sunday Times Online, November 18, 2007

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Block Facebook Beacon. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Block Facebook Beacon - wikiHow

2007-12-19T08:23:00.000-08:00

Block Facebook Beacon - wikiHow

How to Throw a Card With Your Thumb - wikiHow - wikiHow

2007-12-17T18:30:00.000-08:00

How to Throw a Card With Your Thumb - wikiHow - wikiHow

Another silly trick.

2007-12-14T11:42:00.001-08:00

How to Fix a Stuck Pixel on an LCD Monitor

from wikiHow

If your LCD screen has a stuck or dead pixel (a point on the screen that is always lit or always dark), it is usually due to a transistor malfunction or uneven distribution of liquid in the liquid crystal display (TFT LCD). This can often be fixed.

Steps

Software Method

Try running pixel fixing software (see Sources and Citations). Stuck pixels can often be re-energised by rapidly turning them on and off. If this fails, complete the following steps.

Pressure Method

Turn off your computer's monitor.
Get yourself a damp washcloth, so that you don't scratch your screen.
Take a household pen, pencil, screwdriver, or some other sort of instrument with a focused, but relatively dull, point. A very good tool would be a PDA stylus.
Fold the washcloth to make sure you don't accidentally puncture it and scratch the screen.
Apply pressure through the folded washcloth with the instrument to exactly where the stuck pixel is. Try not to put pressure anywhere else, as this may make more stuck pixels.
While applying pressure, turn on your computer and screen.
Remove pressure and the stuck pixel should be gone. This works as the liquid in the liquid crystal has not spread into each little pixel. This liquid is used with the backlight on your monitor, allowing different amounts of light through, which creates the different colors.

Tapping Method

Turn on the computer and LCD screen.
Display a black image, which will show the stuck pixel very clearly against the background. (It is very important that you are showing a black image and not just a blank signal, as you need the backlighting of the LCD to be illuminating the back of the panel).
Find a pen with a rounded end. A Sharpie marker with the cap on should be fine for this.
Use the rounded end of the pen to gently tap where the stuck pixel is - not too hard to start with, just enough to see a quick white glow under the point of contact. If you didn't see a white glow, then you didn't tap hard enough, so use just slightly more pressure this time.
Start tapping gently. Increase the pressure on the taps gradually for 5-10 taps until the pixel rights itself.
Display a white image (an empty text document is good for this) to verify that you haven't accidentally caused more damage than you fixed.

Tips

If the pressure and tapping don't work directly on the stuck pixel, start moving outward around the stuck pixel. If you see the pixel flicker while doing this then you know where you can focus the pressure and tapping techniques rather than directly on the pixel.
Many people report success with this technique but these instructions won't work in every case. It may take a few attempts to make sure you are pressing exactly on the stuck pixel.
These instructions will fix "stuck" pixels, not "dead" ones. Dead pixels appear black while stuck pixels can be one constant color like red, blue or green.
An alternative, but similar technique involves gently massaging the stuck pixel with a warm damp (not wet) soft cloth.
Alternative technique to tapping: Using a rounded pencil eraser, push with moderate pressure into screen at stuck pixel.
If these instructions don't work, you can hopefully get the monitor replaced through your manufacturer. If your monitor falls under the specifications of replacement, get in contact with the manufacturer to set up replacement plans.

Warnings

Do not attempt to open the monitor as it will void the warranty and the manufacturer will not replace it.
Make sure you don't get any electrical equipment wet or it may break.
Some people claim that touching the screen can cause more pixels to become stuck, although this has not been proven.
After unpacking a brand new LCD Display (single lcd or laptop lcd), avoid exposing it to a direct source of strong light ( eg. Camera Flash Light, or direct sun light ), for at least the first critical 10-20 operating hours. LCD pixels, as they are capable of transmitting light, can also be (slightly) sensitive to receiving light, therefore a direct strong light could damage it.

Related wikiHows

Sources and Citations

JScreenFix - A web-based Java Applet that randomly turns on and off each pixel at up to 60 times a second to fix stuck pixels.
Digg.com - Over 100 comments on the pressure method from Digg users. Note that it worked for many people but not all.
TomsHardware.com - Article on how many dead pixels a monitor must have for your specific manufacturer to replace it.
JeffPatch.com blog Post about the Sony Color Flashing Video which can also fix stuck pixels.
DPT 2.20 A Windows application to help locate and identify dead/stuck pixels. Also has a pixel exerciser built in to possibly get lazy pixels working again.
UDPixel 2.1 - A free windows application which help you to locate and fix 1 or more stuck pixels.
Kill Dead Pixel An animated gif that may fix dead pixels

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Fix a Stuck Pixel on an LCD Monitor. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Testing, testing

2007-12-12T14:55:00.001-08:00

Hi all,

I'll occasionally use this blog to test things. Move along now. Nothing to see here right now.